SPHYNX CARE

 

Tom and I have been entranced by the Sphynx breed long before our first adoption in 1999 with  Luna. I have since dedicated every waking moment to them including attending historical moments such as the advancement of the breed into CFA acceptance – as well as having the 1st Grand Champion in the associations history (GC RW Majikmoon Mo Lesta). 

Throughout the years we’ve had to move several times for career changes and the cats have been forever forgiving and up for the challenges! Our present location is central Texas but only time will tell where chance will take us next. All we know is that have Sphynx will travel. 

The cat's have free range of our home because it is THEIR home too! They take advantage of us every moment of the day, Hopping onto your lap while you need bathroom privacy or snatching a piece of chicken off of your plate at dinner time.

They are always up to no good and it is the best feeling to have the love of these precious rumpled babies.  

Our kittens and cats are highly socialized, ready for just about any new adventure and definitely fearless in the face of adversity. We guarantee you will fall madly deeply in love with your new nude companion for the lifetime that you are together. 

R & T

 




FEEDING

Feed a species appropriate diet for carnivores! Real food that will give your pet great health, vitality, balance and longevity for life!

We strongly recommend feeding your pets a diet closest to what nature intended.  

Any kitten or cat coming from our home will have been started on and been fed a diet that is 75% raw, grain-free kibble has been introduced but there is no guarantee that they like it! Most of our cats prefer their meat diet and demand that they be continued on this. 

Starting out –

Your cat is addicted to kibble and in order to stop the madness might we suggest eating species appropriate food.

http://www.catnutrition.org/recipes.php

Barf diet such as the recipe found on catnutrition.org has the nutrients and vitamins necessary to provide all of your cat’s needs however, the act of grinding does break down some of those nutrients therefore we suggest that you take mini-steps towards moving your pet into the next step…frankenprey. 

http://www.rawfedcats.org/

Frankeyprey is feeding a variety of parts of whole animals such as chicken quarters, duck hearts, beef liver, chicken thighs, beef kidneys, etc.
Chopping these parts into manageable pieces of 1-2” bites allows for the cat to chew and receive the full benefits of a raw diet. Chewing bone strengthens the jaw, cleans the teeth, provides oral stimulation and improves bowel movements as well as so many more health benefits.
 

Lastly, for the more daring there is

Prey Model

Rawfeeding where whole animals such as whole unskinned, rabbits are fed. Other animals such as quail, chicken, fish, mice, duck, turkey, etc. are typical whole prey animals. Some owners will cut the animal into "serving" sizes and feed until the whole animal is consumed.  

However we feed, we should always be striving for a week's worth of food consisting of 80% muscle meat, 10% bone, and 10% organ meat, 5% of which *must* be liver of some kind.

Some animals will need more bone, others will need more muscle meat and organs. Watch the poops of your pet ... hard, dry, white or constipated poops need less bone and more muscle and organ meat. Loose poops need more bone and less organ meat. Guideline: Bone hardens up the poops and organ meat loosens them up. 

More reading:

http://www.catinfo.org/makingcatfood.htm

http://www.felinenutrition.net/recipe.html

If all of this is a bit too daunting there are some fantastic pre-made diets to choose from as well as grain-free kibble brands that you can use in conjunction with grain-free canned as a supplement. We use and recommend

 Nature’s Variety raw diets (Instinct), Wellness Core.

We also utilize raw diet foods available from the following sources:
Hare Today
Texas Tripe
Aunt Jeni

USE GOOD BOWLS!

 

Grooming 

The grooming care of your Sphynx is essential for optimal health as well. Although some websites give false information about the frequency needed for washing, Majikmoon Sphynx generally need only 2 baths monthly sometimes less but we recommend cleaning the ears weekly whether they appear to be dirty or not. Flushing the ears can help reduce the chances of yeast infections (which are major issues in the breed).

Keep your kitty nails trimmed and you will see a reduction in destructive behaviors as well as accidental scratches on your own skin. Sphynx are so loving but a bit clumsy, they unwittingly will jump on your back or shoulders and if they have sharp little daggers you can be certain that you’ll be in a world of pain!

Do NOT use baby shampoo, do NOT use dish detergent – these are not suitable for your cat’s skin and are stripping and drying. Rather consider the texture which is akin to our own. There are plenty of hypoallergenic soap free bath washes that will work wonders to keep your baby squeaky clean.

 

Litter 

Although we do prefer natural products like the World’s Best Cat Litter, there are some fantastic products by Dr. Elsey’s including crystal litter that reduces the amount of tracking and because it’s absorbs liquid the scent of urine is almost non-existent in your home! 1 container – 1 cat =1 month!

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Don’t forget to sign up for the Sphynx Enthusiast Newsletter www.sphynxnewsletter.com , Where there are wonderful articles and pictures.  The editors are looking forward to hearing from you as well. Join them on Facebook as well as Twitter.

We are also available on Facebook.  Just search for Majikmoon Sphynx

 


Get involved – Learn and Share with others that love Sphynx





DECLAWING!   What You Need To Know

What does it mean when a cat is declawed? How is it done? Examine these drawings:




The cat's claw is not a toenail at the end of the toe as in other animals. It is movable digit attached to muscle as a finger might be. Note the strong ligaments and tendons, which give power to extend and retract the claws. This is unique in cats. Without this your cat would not be able to properly grasp, hold or establish footing for proper walking, running, springing, climbing or stretching. Think of the cat as having 10 toes on each foot. Declawing is akin to cutting off half their toes. When the end digit, including the claw is removed, the sensory and motor nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. They do not repair themselves or grow back for many months. Following the surgery there is a wooden lack of feeling, then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence while the cat must walk on the stub end of the second digit. Remember that during all this time the cat may not "rest" his feet as we would after a similar operation but must continue to scratch in his litter box, walk and attempt to jump as usual regardless of his pain.

Since cats have keener senses than humans, they suffer even more than humans. Many pain killing drugs, including aspirin, do not agree with cats and can cause illness or even death. Anyone who has had surgery will appreciate the problem that can be created by the inability to take pain-relieving medication. It is also possible for the claws to grow back, but often not in the normal manner, instead they may grow through the top or bottom of the paw, creating a bloody, painful sore. An Atlanta news station recently had a story of a declawing followed by infection so severe that the cat's foot had to be amputated.

The cat's body is especially well designed. The skeleton is better jointed and more elastic than most other animals and the muscles governing the lithe body are highly developed. This gives the cat great climbing power. The sharp claws can be whipped out for business or tucked neatly away. The elastic tendon holds the claw in its own sheath. The claw is flat on each side so it will slide in and out better. When the cat pulls his claw down with the use of the big tendon that lies along the under part of the toe, the ligament stretches like a fresh rubber band. It is hooked on the end for hanging on.

Cats like to keep their claws sharp and clean (and remove the outer sheath of the nail) by working on the scratching post you provide. Equipping your cat with the proper scratching post and taking the time to train him to use it will help preserve your furniture and carpets. Scratching posts made of soft carpeting teach your cat that soft fabrics, i.e. your sofa and rugs, are proper for scratching. A better idea are posts made of sisal rope or carpet turned inside out. This encourages your cat to scratch on hard, coarse surfaces. Training your cat to use this post takes some effort on your part. If you see him attempting to scratch on furniture or carpet, clap your hands sharply, say NO! then pick him up gently and place him on the sisal post. (If stronger measures are needed, you might also want to keep a squirt bottle with plain water handy.) If your cat seems to prefer a particular area, try covering it with aluminum foil for a while. Catnip-treated cardboard scratchers, best used lying flat, are also effective. Most cats are pretty smart and after a short time, and much praise, will get the idea. It is also essential to properly clip your cat's claws with a well-made cat claw scissors. The sharp hook must be clipped off without injuring the pink quick. Cutting into the quick will hurt the cat and you will have a difficult time holding him quiet the next time.

Besides the physical mutilation, consider what declawing may do to the cat's emotions, the personality changes that may occur. Knowing he has not the means to defend himself, some cats follow the precept of the best defense is a good offense, and will bite at the least provocation (and it may truly be the least provocation.) Others become depressed and lose the loving personality that made you choose him to start with.

"The Learning Channel" had a series of documentaries about cats in January of 1993 and again in July 1995 and several of their comments were appropriate to this flyer. In one segment a cat owner spoke to a pet psychologist about her biting cat. It was no surprise to me when she admitted that the cat was declawed. Another segment showed a kitten being declawed. The commentator said that declawing was an American procedure and, in fact, most veterinarians in other countries refuse to do the operation.

I have recently heard about another nasty piece of business that some veterinarians are advocating as an "alternative" to Declawing; Tendonectomy--the cutting of the tendons themselves to prevent the claws from being extended. This is a bad, if not worse, than declawing itself. The claws continue to grow and constant maintenance of trimming must be done for the rest of the cat's life. (The same trimming procedure that if done anyway will keep your cat's intact claws shortened, blunted and less damaging to your furniture.) Failure to trim claws in this situation will result in additional veterinary attention throughout the cat's life as the claws will grow around and into the paw pad of the foot. You can imagine how much daily pain a cat would have to go through in this condition.

If you really love your cat, you will want him to lead a long, happy life, giving and receiving love and affection. If you really love him, and care about him, don't declaw him.

We wish to thank and give credit to the All State Burmese Society, a CFA club, from whom the bulk of this information was gathered.

For more insight on the evils of Declawing,
CLICK HERE


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